Introduction

One of the prime reasons to visit American Samoa is to see Tutuila, one of the South Pacific's most dramatically beautiful islands, and you'll get an eyeful of gorgeous scenery on the 11km (6 3/4-mile) ride from the airport at Tafuna into the legendary port of Pago Pago. But first you will see the effects of American dollars, for the area around the airport is a bustling suburb with shopping centers and a modern multiscreen cinema. The road is crowded with cars and buses and patrolled by policemen in big American-style cruisers. It's little wonder, therefore, that many visitors view American Samoa as crowded, littered, run-down, and ruined by commercialism.

Yet the physical beauty of this island competes favorably with the splendor of Moorea and Bora Bora in French Polynesia. Once the road clears the shopping area at Nu'uuli, it twists and turns along the rocky coastline. At places it rounds the cliffs of headlands dropping into the sea; at others it curves along beaches in small bays backed by valleys. All the way, the surf pounds on the reef. When you make the last turn at Blount's Point, you'll behold green walls dropping precipitously into Pago Pago Harbor.

Try to ignore the mountain of rusting shipping containers and the two smelly tuna canneries on the shore of the harbor.

Despite the obvious inroads of Western ways and American loot, the local residents still cling to fa'a Samoa, the ancient Samoan way of life. While many young American Samoans wear Western clothes and speak only English, often with a pronounced Hawaiian or Californian accent, in the villages the older folk still converse in Samoan and abide by the old ways.

This also is the scene of the first American national park below the equator. Although it has yet to be developed, you can hike its trails and explore some of American Samoa's phenomenal beauty close up.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

Planning a Trip

Visitor Information

The American Samoa Office of Tourism, P.O. Box 1147, Pago Pago, AS 96799 (tel. 699-9411; fax 699-9414; www.amsamoatourism.com), has offices inconveniently located in Tafuna, near the airport. The office is open Monday to Friday from 8am to 4pm. The brochure of the National Park of American Samoa contains the best map of the territory .

The Delegate from American Samoa to the U.S. Congress (Eni Faleomavaega) also dispenses some tourist information. His address is: U.S. House of Representatives, 2422 Rayburn HOB, Washington, DC 20515 (tel. 202/225-8577; www.house.gov/faleomavaega/index.shtml).

Entry Requirements

Except for Samoans, New Zealanders, and a few others, entry permits are not required for stays of up to 30 days. American citizens and nationals need valid passports or certified birth certificates (forget the birth certificate, you will need your passport to go home). Everyone else needs a valid passport and a ticket for onward passage. Women more than 6 months pregnant are not allowed entry.

Immunizations are not required.

When to Go

Climate -- "It did not pour, it flowed," wrote W. Somerset Maugham in his 1921 short story "Rain," the famous tale of prostitute Sadie Thompson, who seduces a puritanical missionary while stranded in American Samoa. This description, however, applies mainly to Pago Pago, which, because of its location behind appropriately named Rainmaker Mountain, gets an average of over 500cm (197 in.) of rain a year. The rest of American Samoa enjoys a typically tropical climate, with lots of very intense sunshine even during the wet season from December to April. Average daily high temperatures range from 83°F (28°C) in the drier, somewhat cooler months of June through September to 86°F (30°C) from December to April, when midday can be hot and sticky. Evenings are usually in the 70s (20s Celsius) all year round.

Holidays & Events -- The biggest celebration is on April 17, when American Samoa Flag Day commemorates the raising of the Stars and Stripes over Tutuila in 1900. The second Sunday in October is observed as White Sunday; children attend church dressed in white and are later honored at family feasts.

Public holidays are New Year's Day, Martin Luther King Jr. Day (third Mon in Jan), President's Day (third Mon in Feb), Good Friday, American Samoa Flag Day (Apr 17), Memorial Day (last Mon in May), the Fourth of July, Labor Day (first Mon in Sept), Columbus Day (second Mon in Oct), Veteran's Day (Nov 11), Thanksgiving (fourth Thurs of Nov), and Christmas Day.

Money

United States currency is used in American Samoa. Samoan tala are not accepted, nor can they be exchanged here.

How to Get Local Currency -- The Bank of Hawaii and the ANZ Amerika Samoa Bank, both in Fagatogo, are open Monday to Friday 9am to 3pm. Both have ATMs at their main offices, and ANZ has one in Pago Plaza, the shopping center at the head of the harbor.

Credit Cards -- American Express, Visa, MasterCard, and Diners Club are accepted by the hotels, car-rental firms, and airlines. Otherwise, it's best to carry cash to cover your anticipated expenses. No one here accepts Discover.

Getting There

From Samoa -- Polynesian Airlines (tel. 800/644-7659 in the U.S., 22-737 in Apia, or 633-4331 in Pago Pago; www.polynesianairlines.com), Inter Island Airways (tel. 42-580 in Samoa, 699-7100 in American Samoa), and South Pacific Express (tel. 28-901 in Apia, 699-9900 in American Samoa) fly between Faleolo Airport in Samoa and Pago Pago several times a day. I always fly on Polynesian because it is a licensed scheduled carrier while the others are charter airlines. Round-trip fares are about S$310 (US$124/£62) if purchased in Apia, US$155 to US$165 (£78-£83 plus taxes if bought in American Samoa.

For the adventurous, a relatively modern ferry, the Lady Naomi, makes the 8-hour voyage between Pago Pago and Apia at least once a week, usually leaving the main wharf in Apia at 11pm on Wednesday and departing Pago Pago's marine terminal at 4pm on Thursday for the return voyage. Tickets should be bought at least a day ahead. One-way fares from Pago Pago to Apia are US$60 (£30) for a seat, US$75 (£38) for a cabin. The Lady Naomi is operated by the Samoa Shipping Corporation, whose ticket office is on Beach Road, opposite the main wharf in Apia (tel. 20-935; www.samoashipping.com). The American Samoa agent is Polynesia Shipping Services (tel. 633-1211). Because the trade winds prevail from the southeast, the trip going west with the wind toward Apia is usually smoother.

From Other Countries -- The only international carrier serving American Samoa is Hawaiian Airlines, which flies from several U.S. West Coast cities to Pago Pago, with a change of planes at Honolulu. Otherwise, you can fly to Faleolo Airport in Samoa on Air New Zealand, Air Pacific, or Polynesian Blue, and then connect to Pago Pago.

Arriving & Departing -- Pago Pago International Airport (PPG) is near the village of Tafuna, about 11km (6 3/4 miles) west of Pago Pago. Taxi fare is about US$15 (£7.50) from the airport to Pago Pago harbor. The "Tafuna" local buses stop at the airport terminal on their way into Pago Pago. Bus fare is US75¢ (38p).

Departure taxes are included in the ticket price.

Seeing American Samoa as a Day Trip from Apia -- You can see American Samoa as a 1-day side trip from independent Samoa. The easiest way is to buy a package from Oceania Travel & Tours, at the Kitano Tusitala Hotel in Apia (tel. 24-443; fax 22-255). The US$350 (£175) per-person fee includes round-trip airfare, a guided tour of Tutuila island, and lunch. Oceania's American Samoa office is above the main post office in Pago Pago (tel. 633-1172).

To do it yourself, reserve a rental car in Pago Pago at least a day in advance (there is too much to see to rely on the bus system or even a taxi). Then fly early in the morning from Faleolo airport to Pago Pago. Go to the airline's office and reconfirm your afternoon return flight, then pick up your car. Drive into Pago Pago and take a stroll. Drive to the eastern end of the island, then backtrack to Pago Pago and have lunch. If you have time, drive out to the western end. Catch the last flight back to Apia.

Getting Around

Inter Island Airways (tel. 42-580 in Samoa, 699-7100 in American Samoa; www.interislandair.com), the local carrier, flies to the Manu'a Islands, but don't count on it. The territory always has trouble keeping a domestic airline flying.

By Rental Car -- The only international car-rental firm in American Samoa is Avis (tel. 800/331-1212 or 699-2746; www.avis.com), which rents air-conditioned models for US$70 to US$110 (£35-£55) per day, including unlimited mileage, plus an optional US$13 (£6.50) for insurance. Less reliable local firms include Sir Amos (tel. 699-4554), Friendly (tel. 699-7186), and Dollar Rental Car (tel. 633-7716; dollarrentalcar@yahoo.com). The latter is not affiliated with the international rental company of the same name.

Driving Rules -- Your valid home driver's license will be honored in American Samoa. Driving is on the right-hand side of the road, and traffic signs are the same as those used in the United States. The speed limit is 15 mph in the built-up areas and 25 mph on the open road.

By Bus -- Gaily-painted aiga buses prowl the roads from early morning until sunset every day except Sunday. Basically they run from the villages to the market in Pago Pago and back, picking up anyone who waves along the way. Some buses leave the market and run to Fagasa on the north coast or to the east end of the island; others go from the market to the west. goes from one end of the island to the other, so you'll have to change at the market in order to do a stem-to-stern tour of Tutuila. Most drivers are helpful, so just ask how far they go in each direction. Fares are between US75¢ and US$2 (£38p/£1) per ride.

By Taxi -- There are taxi stands at the airport (tel. 699-1179) and at the Pago Pago market (no phone). of the taxis have meters, so be sure to negotiate the fare before driving off. The fares should be about US$1 (50p) per mile.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

In Depth

The seven islands of American Samoa are on the eastern end of the 483km-long (300-mile) Samoa Archipelago. Together they comprise a land area of 200 sq. km (77 sq. miles), almost half of which belong to Tutuila, the slender remains of an ancient volcano. One side of Tutuila's crater apparently blew away, almost cutting the island in two. This created the long, bent arm of Pago Pago Harbor, one of the South Pacific's most dramatically scenic spots.

Fewer American Samoans live in their home islands than reside in the United States. The expatriate American Samoans have been replaced at home by their kindred from independent Samoa and by some Tongans, who have swelled the population to about 68,000, up from 30,000 in the 1990s.

Government -- American Samoa is the only U.S. territory south of the equator. American Samoans are "noncitizen nationals" of the United States. Although they carry American passports, have unrestricted entry into the United States, and can serve in the U.S. armed forces, they cannot vote in U.S. presidential elections.

American Samoa has a "delegate" in the U.S. House of Representatives; that is, an elected representative who may not vote in the full House, but can cast a vote on a House committee. Eni Faleomavaega, a Democrat, is the delegate from American Samoa. The country also holds primary elections for U.S. presidential candidates, and sends delegates to the conventions, but does not have any electoral votes.

The U.S. Department of the Interior has jurisdiction over American Samoa, but American Samoans elect their own governor and members of the lower house of the Fono, their bicameral legislature. In accordance with Samoan custom, local chiefs pick members of the territorial senate. The Fono has authority over the budget and local affairs, although both the governor and the U.S. Department of the Interior can veto the laws it passes. American Samoans also elect a nonvoting delegate to the U.S. House of Representatives in Washington, D.C.

The territorial government's annual budget is considerably larger than that of independent Samoa, which has a population some three times larger. Washington provides about half the government's revenue. Some 80% of the taxes raised locally go to pay more than 5,000 government employees, about 42% of the local workforce. They earn more per hour than any South Pacific country other than French Polynesia.

Economy -- Together the local government and the two tuna canneries employ about 80% of the local workforce. The canneries account for some 80% of the territory's private sector product. About 70% of their 4,700 workers are from nearby Samoa (they earn at least three times what they can make at home). The aging canneries have survived for more than 50 years because of tax credits and duty-free access to the United States. Tourism is a minuscule part of the economy. Most visitors arrive on large cruise ships putting into Pago Pago for a day.

American Samoa Yesterday: History 101

As friendly as American Samoans are today, their ancestors did anything but warmly welcome a French expedition under Jean La Pérouse, which came ashore in 1787 on the north coast of Tutuila. Samoan warriors promptly attacked, killing 12 members of the landing party, which in turn killed 39 Samoans. The site of the battle is known as Massacre Bay. La Pérouse survived that incident, but he and his entire expedition later disappeared in what is now the Solomon Islands.

In 1872, the U.S. Navy negotiated a treaty with the chiefs of Tutuila to permit it to use Pago Pago as a coaling station. The agreement helped keep the Germans out of Eastern Samoa, as present-day American Samoa was then known.

In 1900 the chiefs on Tutuila ceded control of their island to the United States, and the paramount chief of the Manu'a Group of islands east of Tutuila did likewise in 1905. Finally ratified by the U.S. Senate in 1929, those treaties are the legal foundation for the U.S. presence in American Samoa.

Part of the U.S. -- From 1900 until 1951, U.S. authority in Samoa rested with the U.S. Navy, which maintained the refueling station at Pago Pago and for the most part let the local chiefs conduct their own affairs. Tutuila became a base for U.S. servicemen during World War II, but things quickly returned to normal after 1945.

Control of the territory was shifted from the navy to the U.S. Department of the Interior in 1951. The department did little in the islands until 1961, when Reader's Digest magazine ran an article about "America's shame in the South Seas." The story took great offense at the lack of roads and adequate schools, medical care, water and sewer service, and housing. The U.S. federal government reacted by paving the roads and building an international airport, water and electrical systems, the then-modern Rainmaker Hotel, and a convention center. A 1.5km-long (1 mile-long) cable was strung across Pago Pago Harbor to build a television transmitter atop 480m (1,575 ft.) Mount Alava, from which education programming was beamed into the schools.

For fear of losing all that federal support, American Samoans were reluctant to tinker with their relationship with Washington during the 1960s and 1970s, when other South Pacific colonies were becoming independent. The United States offered local autonomy, but they refused. They changed minds in the mid-1970s, when an appointed governor was very unpopular, and elected their own governor for the first time in 1977.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

Organized Tours

In addition to its day trips from Apia, Oceania Travel & Tours, in the Lumanai'i Building in Fagatogo (tel. 633-1172), has half- and full-day guided tours of Tutuila and Aunu'u islands for about US$40 and US$80 (£20-£40) per person.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

Walking Tours

A Stroll Through Pago Pago

Although the actual village of Pago Pago sits at the head of the harbor, everyone considers Pago Pago to be the built-up area on the south shore of the harbor, including Fagatogo, the government and business center. The harbor is also called the Bay Area. Despite development that has come with economic growth of the territory, Pago Pago still has much of the old South Seas atmosphere that captivated W. Somerset Maugham when he wrote "Rain" in the 1920s.

A stroll through the Pago Pago area should take about 2 hours. Begin at Sadie's by the Sea hotel on the east end of the inner harbor, actually in the village of Utulei. Just across the road from the hotel, a set of concrete steps climbs to Government House, the clapboard mansion built in 1903 to house the governor. The mansion is not open to the public, but there is a splendid view from the top of the steps looking across the harbor to flat-top Rainmaker Mountain.

Back on the main road heading toward town, you walk past a mountain of shipping containers standing idle on the main wharf. Beyond the busy port terminal and opposite the post office is the Jean P. Haydon Museum (tel. 633-4347), in an old iron-roofed building that was once the U.S. Navy's commissary. Worth a 30-minute stop, the museum has exhibits on Samoan history, sea life, canoes, kava making, and traditional tools and handicrafts, including a 400-year-old finely woven mat. A few high-quality handicrafts are for sale. Open Monday to Friday 9am to 3pm, except on holidays. Admission is free, but donations are accepted.

Every Samoan village has a malae, or open field, and the area across from the museum is Fagatogo's. The chiefs of Tutuila met on this malae in 1900 to sign the treaty that established the United States in Samoa. The round modern building across the road beside the harbor is the Fono, American Samoa's legislature; the visitors' galleries are open to the public. The ramshackle stores along the narrow streets on the other side of the malae were Pago Pago's downtown for half a century, although like any other place under the Stars and Stripes, much business is now conducted in suburban shopping centers. On the malae, the American Samoa Archives Office occupies the stone jail built in 1911.

Just beyond the malae on the main road stands the Judicial Building, home of the High Court of American Samoa (everyone calls it the Court House). The big white clapboard building with columns looks as if it should be in South Carolina rather than the South Pacific. Across the road on the waterfront stands Fagatogo Plaza, a shopping center. In contrast to Fagatogo Plaza are the produce and fish markets a few yards farther on. They are usually poorly stocked, and when they do have produce, it most likely comes by ferry from Samoa. The markets also serve as the bus terminal.

Continuing north along the harbor, you soon come to the historic Sadie Thompson Building, where W. Somerset Maugham stayed in the 1920s. Now home to the Sadie Thompson Inn and restaurant, it is the best place in town for lunch before touring the island.

Take a Mocha Break -- The local version of Starbucks is Island Java Cafe (tel. 633-5282), in Fagatogo Plaza shopping center opposite the Judicial Building. In addition to coffee and tea, it serves refreshing fruit smoothies and juices. Open Monday to Friday 7am to 5pm and Saturday 8:30am to 2:30pm.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

Maps

Customize your trip planning experience by plotting selected points of interest using our interactive map of American Samoa.
Plan your trip around all of American Samoa, or focus in on specific American Samoa neighborhood maps if you prefer.

Interactive Map

Guidebook Maps

• 
  Pago Pago Accommodations
  


• 
  Pago Pago Attractions
  

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

Hotels

Frommer's Star Rating

	0 stars	Frommer's Recommended
	1 stars	Frommer's Highly Recommended
	2 stars	Frommer's Very Highly Recommended
	3 stars	Frommer's Exceptional

About Our System

Frommer's ranks every hotel, restaurant, attraction, shop, and nightlife
establishment it reviews for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using
a star-rating scale, an expression of the strong compare-and-contrast opinions that are
a brand hallmark.

Other ratings provide stars based primarily on price and amenities; the
Frommer's star rating is meant to quantify the kind of intangible, experiential elements that
help travelers make informed decisions.

The "baseline" recommendation is zero stars--every
hotel, restaurant, attraction, shop, and nightlife establishment that Frommer's chooses to
review is recommended; otherwise, we simply wouldn't include it.

: About our rating system

	Price	Name	Neighborhood
		Pago Airport Inn	Around Town
		Sadie Thompson Inn	Around Town
		Sadie's by the Sea	Around Town
		Tradewinds Hotel	Around Town

Hotels

If you are a bed-and-breakfast type, check out Dean Hudson's Le Falepule, P.O. Box 4179, Pago Pago, AS 96799 (tel. 633-5246; fax 633-5648; www.american.samoa-hotels.com/le-falepule).

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

Restaurants

Frommer's Star Rating

	0 stars	Frommer's Recommended
	1 stars	Frommer's Highly Recommended
	2 stars	Frommer's Very Highly Recommended
	3 stars	Frommer's Exceptional

About Our System

Frommer's ranks every hotel, restaurant, attraction, shop, and nightlife
establishment it reviews for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using
a star-rating scale, an expression of the strong compare-and-contrast opinions that are
a brand hallmark.

Other ratings provide stars based primarily on price and amenities; the
Frommer's star rating is meant to quantify the kind of intangible, experiential elements that
help travelers make informed decisions.

The "baseline" recommendation is zero stars--every
hotel, restaurant, attraction, shop, and nightlife establishment that Frommer's chooses to
review is recommended; otherwise, we simply wouldn't include it.

: About our rating system

	Price	Name	Cuisine
		Don't Drink the Water (DDW) Cafe	American
		Rubbles Tavern	American
		Sadie's Restaurant and Bar	American
		The DeLuxe Cafe	American

Restaurants

The food doesn't match the harbor view, but a decent place to refresh during your walking tour of Pago Pago is the inexpensive Waterfront Restaurant (tel. 633-1199), in the Fagatogo Square shops opposite the High Court. It offers pizzas, fried chicken, sandwiches, hamburgers, hot dogs, nachos, fish and chips, and daily specials such as fried fish with rice and gravy, a fattening local favorite. It's open Monday to Friday 6am to 5pm and Saturday 6am to 3pm; it does not take credit cards.

A Fascinating Pit Stop -- Ramshackle bars by the beach are part of the South Seas lore, but few of these establishments actually exist these days. One that does is Tisa's Barefoot Bar on Alega Beach (tel. 622-7447). This funky joint looks slapped together because it is. The owners put it together from driftwood, scrap lumber, well-worn tables, and whatever else they could find. Libation is served daily from 11am to 7pm, with seafood dinners afterward by advance reservation only. You can go snorkeling and swimming here at high tide, and you can pay your bill at any tide with your American Express, MasterCard, or Visa.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

Attractions

The North Coast of Tutuila

A paved road turns off the main highway at Spenser's Store in Pago Pago village and leads up Vaipito Valley, across a ridge, and down to Fagasa, a village huddled beside picturesque Fagasa, or Forbidden Bay, on Tutuila's north shore. The road is steep but paved, and the view from atop the ridge is excellent. The track up Mount Alava begins on the saddle. Legend says that porpoises long ago led a group of three men and three women to safety in Fagasa Bay, which has long been a porpoise sanctuary.

The East Side of Tutuila

The 29km (18-mile) drive from Pago Pago to the east end of Tutuila skirts along the harbor, past the canneries and their fishy odor, and then winds around one headland after another. Watch particularly for Pyramid Rock and the Lion's Head, where you can wade out to a small beach. (Never go in the water anywhere here unless the locals are already swimming there.)

From Aua, at the foot of Rainmaker Mountain, a switch-backing road runs across Rainmaker Pass (great views from up there) to the lovely north-shore village of Vatia, on a bay of the same name. If you're going to venture off the main road, this is the place to do it. The north-shore coastal road runs through National Park of Samoa land and is the only way to visit the park without hiking . World War II pillboxes still dot the beach here. At the north end of Vatia Bay sits the skinny, offshore rock formation known as the Cockscomb, one of Tutuila's trademarks.

Another paved road leaves Faga'itua village and climbs to a saddle in the ridge, where it divides. The left fork goes down to Masefau Bay; the right goes to Masausi and Sa'ilele villages. Near the east end, a road from Amouli village cuts across Lemafa Saddle to Aoa Bay on the north coast.

To my eye, the southeastern coast road is the most scenic in American Samoa. The route twists and turns from one gorgeous little bay to the next, most of them with villages beside white-sand beaches. Aunu'u Island will be visible from the main road as you near the east end of Tutuila. The top of a small volcanic crater, Aunu'u has a village near a famous pink quicksand pit. Motorboats leave for it from the small-boat harbor at Au'asi, opposite it on the southeast coast.

Alao and Tula villages on the east end of Tutuila are the oldest settlements in American Samoa. They face a long, gorgeous surf beach, but be careful of the undertow from waves driven by the prevailing southeast trade winds. The road turns the northwestern point and climbs precipitously over a mountain ridge and down to Onenoa, a picturesque village tucked in a little bay. You'll have a fine view of the north shore and the Cockscombs as you descend into Onenoa.

The West Side of Tutuila

You saw some of Tutuila's rugged coast on the drive from the airport west of Pago Pago, including the Flower Pot, a tall rock with coconut palms growing on its top sitting in the lagoon. About halfway from the airport to The Rainmaker Hotel, an inland road (at Tom Ho Chung's store) leads to the Lyndon B. Johnson Tropical Medical Center in the Faga'alu Valley. If you feel like taking a hike, take the left fork in the road past the medical center, and when the pavement ends, follow the track to Virgin Falls. It's not the easiest walk, but the falls have a nice pool beneath them. Allow several hours for this sweaty outing.

The airport sits on the island's only sizable parcel of relatively flat land, and the main road west from there cuts through rolling hills and shopping centers until emerging on the rugged west end.

At Pava'ia'i village a road goes inland and climbs to the village of A'oloaufou, high on a central plateau. A hiking trail leads from the village down the ridges to the north coast. From here it drops to A'asutuai on Massacre Bay, where Samoans attacked the La Pérouse expedition in 1787. The French have put a monument there to the members of the expedition who were slain by Samoan warriors. Don't try this hike unless you have experience on mountain trails, and if you do go, take plenty of water to drink.

Back on the main road, head west and watch for a sign on the left marking the turn to the villages of Illi'ili and Vaitogi. Follow the signs to Vaitogi, and when you're in the village, bear right at the fork to the beach. Take the one-lane track to the right along the beach, past some graves and the stone remains of an old church, and up a rocky headland through pandanus groves. When you reach the first clearing on the left, stop the car and walk over to the cliff. According to legend, Vaitogi once experienced such a severe famine that an old blind woman and her granddaughter jumped off this cliff and were turned into a shark and a turtle. Today the villagers can reputedly chant their names, and the turtle and the shark will appear. The view of the south coast from Turtle and Shark Point, with the surf pounding the rocks below you, is superb.

The Rev. John Williams chose the village of Leone, which sits on a white-sand beach in a small bay, as his landing place on Tutuila in 1830, and it became the cradle of Christianity here. There is a monument to Williams in the village. The road beside the Catholic church leads about 2.5km (1 1/2 miles) to Leone Falls, which has a freshwater pool for swimming (but as in the equally religious Samoa, never on Sun).

The road from Leone to the western end of the island winds in and out of small bays with sandy beaches and climbs across a ridge to Poloa village on the northwest coast.

National Park of American Samoa

The National Park of American Samoa was authorized by the U.S. Congress in 1988. Although its facilities have been slow in coming (little has been developed except a few rough hiking trails), the park has amassed more than 10,000 pristine acres -- 3,000 of them on Tutuila and another 6,000 in the Manu'a Islands. In all, they protect some beautiful shoreline, magnificent beaches, cliffs dropping into the sea, reefs, and rainforest reaching to serrated, mist-shrouded mountain peaks. Unlike other U.S. National Parks, in which the federal government buys property outright, here the National Park Service has leased the land from the villages for 50 years, thereby protecting both the natural environment and traditional Samoan ownership customs.

Because development is ongoing, you should stop by the Park Visitors Center, in the Pago Plaza shopping center at the head of the bay, or contact them at NPAS, Pago Pago, AS 96799 (tel. 633-7082; fax 633-7085; www.nps.gov/npsa). The center has exhibits that explain Samoa's prehistory.

On Tutuila, the park starts along the ridge atop Mount Alava and drops down sharp ridges and steep valleys to the north coast. It includes The Cockscomb off the north coast and the scenic Amalau Valley, near the picturesque north-shore village of Vatia, where you can see many of Samoa's native bird species plus flying foxes (fruit bats).

Hikers can scale 1,575-foot Mount Alava via a trail that begins in the Fagasa Pass and ascends steeply through the rainforest. It's a 3-hour walk uphill along a seldom-used four-wheel-drive track, and it takes about 2 hours to get back down, but you'll be rewarded with a view over the entire Pago Pago Harbor and most of Tutuila Island. It's one of the most spectacular vistas in the South Pacific, if not the world. Be sure to take plenty of water.

An easier hike follows the paved road between Afono and Vatia on the north shore. This route skirts cliffs and beaches, and you'll have a view of the Cockscomb offshore. Birds, bats, and land crabs will keep you company.

Rory West of North Shore Tours (tel. 644-1416 or 733-3047) has various expeditions to the north coast, including hiking, camping, and fishing trips.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

Best Dining Bets

You won't be stuck eating only island-style food cooked in an earth oven, nor will you be limited by New Zealanders' and Australians' traditionally bland tastes, which until recently predominated at many restaurants in Fiji. The Indians brought curries to Fiji, and exciting new restaurants are offering cuisine from around the world.

Here are some of my favorites.

Indigo (Denarau Island; tel. 675 0026): In the Port Denarau shopping and dining complex, Indigo is the second-best Indian restaurant in Fiji, behind Saffron , but it also pulls from Southeast Asian culinary tradition with Thai-style crab and Rendang curry. Most dining is alfresco.

Bullacino (Nadi Town; tel. 672 8638): I've had terrific breakfasts and lunches at this sophisticated coffee shop beside the Nadi River. Unfortunately, it is not open for dinner.

Chefs The Restaurant (Nadi Town; tel. 670 3131): Along with Indigo, this formal restaurant is the creation of Chef Eugene Gomes, who came here from Goa, India. The service is attentive, and the international fare is very good.

Saffron (Nadi Town; tel. 670 1233): Another Eugene Gomes creation, Saffron consistently serves Fiji's best northern Indian cuisine, and it's tops for vegetarians, too.

Nadina Authentic Fijian Restaurant (Queen's Rd., Martintar, Nadi; tel. 672 7313): While most resorts serve native food only on the buffets at their nighttime island feasts, this little restaurant serves great Fijian fare -- such as the luscious ota miti, the tender young shoots of the wood fern served with coconut milk -- round-the-clock.

The Outer Reef Seafood Cafe/Sandbar Restaurant (Queen's Rd., Martintar, Nadi; tel. 672 7201): No other restaurant has as wide an array of seafood as this stylish outdoor cafe. Much of it is flown in fresh from Australia.

Vilisite's Seafood Restaurant (The Coral Coast; tel. 653 0054): This seaside restaurant, owned and operated by a friendly Fijian woman named Vilisite, doesn't look like much from the outside, but it offers a handful of excellent seafood meals to augment a terrific view along the Coral Coast.

Hare Krishna Restaurant (16 Pratt St., Suva; tel. 331 4154): I always have at least one lunch at this clean, casual vegetarian restaurant. Choosing is easy, since everything is presented cafeteria-style.

Maya Dhaba (281 Victoria Parade, Suva; tel. 331 0045): Although inexpensive, Maya Dhaba is Suva's most sophisticated restaurant, offering authentic Indian cuisine at extraordinarily reasonable prices in a hip, urbane environment. Both meat and vegetarian dishes appear here.

Old Mill Cottage (47-49 Carnavon St., Suva; tel. 331 2134): Diplomats and government workers pack this old colonial cottage at breakfast and lunch for some of the region's best and least expensive local fare. Offerings range from English-style roast chicken with mashed potatoes and peas to Fijian-style palusami (fresh fish wrapped in taro leaves and steamed in coconut milk).

Surf 'n' Turf (Copra Shed, Savusavu; tel. 881 0966): A veteran of Jean-Michel Cousteau Fiji Islands Resort, Chef Vijendra Kumar is very good with tropical lobsters, and he often accompanies them with ota miti, my favorite Fijian vegetable.

Coconut Grove Restaurant (Matei, Taveuni; tel. 888 0328): I love the fresh banana bread and the Thai fish at Ronna Goldstein's little hotel on Taveuni. Adding to the enjoyment is the view from her veranda of the rocky islets off Taveuni.

Tramontu Bar & Grill (Matei, Taveuni; tel. 888 2224): The pizzas and other fare at this local restaurant aren't that great, but it has a million-dollar view of the Somosomo Strait from its clifftop perch.

Vunibokoi Restaurant (Matei, Taveuni; tel. 888 0560): This plain restaurant on the front porch of the inexpensive Tovu Tovu Resort has one of the best Friday night buffets of Fijian lovo food (cooked in an underground oven).

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

The Best Beaches

Because all but a few islands in Fiji are surrounded by coral reefs, it has no real surf beaches like those so common in, say, Hawaii and Florida. Most islands (and all but a few resorts) have bathtublike lagoons lapping on coral sands draped by coconut palms. Unfortunately, most lagoons in Fiji are shallow at low tide, thus limiting watersports for half the day. This is especially true on the Coral Coast. Fortunately for the environmentalists among us, some of the most spectacular beaches are on remote islands and are protected from development by the islanders' devotion to their cultures and villages' land rights. Needless to say, resort developers have placed their establishments on most of the best. These stand out from the many.

Qalito (Castaway) Island (the Mamanucas): Better known as the home of Castaway Island Resort, hilly Qalito Island ends at a point flanked on both sides by beaches of deep white sand, which helps make Castaway one of Fiji's most popular resorts.

Malolo Island (the Mamanucas): The beach fronting Malolo Island Fiji resort has deep sand, and the lagoon here is deep enough for swimming and snorkeling at most tides. The resort has one of Fiji's best beach bars.

Mana Island (the Mamanucas): Mana Island has beaches on both its sides, but the one on the south coast is worth writing home about. It's so long that it's shared by both Mana Island Resort and bottom-end backpacker hostels.

Matamanoa Island (the Mamanucas): Just enough room exists between Matamanoa's rocky central hill and its beach to shoe-horn in Matamanoa Island Resort. Both the sands and the lagoon here are deep enough to enjoy all the time.

Malololailai Island (the Mamanucas): Connected to the larger Malolo Island by a marshy isthmus, Malololailai is home to three resorts: Musket Cove Island Resort, Lomani Island Resort, and Plantation Island Resort. Although the lagoon is shallow, the beach in front of Lomani and Plantation Island resorts is one of Fiji's most picturesque, with coconut palms hanging over it in places.

Yasawa Island (the Yasawas): Several of Fiji's best beaches are on Yasawa, the northernmost island in the Yasawa chain. One long stretch of sand near the north end is divided by big black rocks flanked by two Fijian villages. Another in front of Yasawa Island Resort and Spa also has rocks plus waves, a rarity among Fijian beaches.

Nanuyalailai Island (the Yasawas): About midway along the Yasawa chain, Nanuya is skirted on its south side by a long beach that wraps around a coconut palm-studded peninsula and keeps on going. Nanuya Island Resort sits on the western end, while Blue Lagoon Cruises uses the sands on the other side of the peninsula.

Nacula Island (the Yasawas): The inexpensive Oarsmans Bay Lodge, on Nacula Island, sits beside one of the top beaches in Fiji, a glorious strip of sand emptying into a lagoon that is deep at all tides.

Natadola Beach (the Coral Coast): Fiji's main island of Viti Levu doesn't have the high-quality beaches found on the country's small islands, but Natadola is the exception. Until recently this long stretch was spared development, but a big resort is coming.

Vatulele Island Resort (Vatulele): The luxury resort on Vatulele Island has new owners and has been undergoing significant changes, but the 1km (1/2 mile) of sand in front of it remains one of the most brilliantly white beaches in Fiji.

Long Beach (Kadavu): Fiji's longest beach runs for several kilometers along the north shore of Kadavu Island, where one resort is under development. In the meantime, visitors have it all to themselves but will have to stay at nearby Papageno Resort or Dive Kadavu/Matana Beach Resort.

Matana Beach (Kadavu): Also on Kadavu's north shore, Matana Beach combines deep white sand with a deep lagoon. Bordered by a Fijian village and Dive Kadavu/Matana Beach Resort, Matana has a fine view westward along Kadavu's shore.

Volivoli Beach (Rakiraki): At the very northern tip of Viti Levu a few kilometers from Rakiraki, lovely Volivoli also has soft white sand, a deep lagoon, and a spectacular view southwestward toward Viti Levu's mountains. You don't have to pay a fortune either, with inexpensive Volivoli Beach Resort just around the corner.

Namenalala Island (off Savusavu): The main beach at the remote little resort known as Moody's Namena is one of the finest I've seen in Fiji, but owners Tom and Joan Moody have marked four other private beaches with OCCUPIED/UNOCCUPIED signs.

Prince Charles Beach (Taveuni): The northern coast of Taveuni has three great beaches within walking distance of each other, the best being Prince Charles Beach, so named because said prince once took a dip in its warm lagoon.

Horseshoe Bay (Matagi Island): Matagi is an extinct volcano whose crater fell away on one side and formed picturesque Horseshoe Bay. The half-moon-shape beach at its head is one of the finest in the islands, but you have to be on a yacht or a guest at Matangi Island Resort to enjoy it.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

Frommer's Favorite Experiences

• Sipping a Singapore Sling at the Long Bar: Ahhhh, the Long Bar, home of the Singapore Sling. Sheltered by long jalousie shutters that close out the tropical sun, the air cooled by lazy punkahs (small fans that wave gently back and forth above), you can sit back in old rattan chairs and have your saronged waitress serve you the sticky alcoholic creations. Life can be so decadent. Okay, so the punkahs are electric, and, come to think of it, the place is air-conditioned (not to mention that it costs a small fortune), but it's fun to imagine the days when Somerset Maugham, Rudyard Kipling, or Charlie Chaplin would be sitting at the bar sipping Slings and spinning exotic tales of their world travels.

• Walking the City Streets: Comfortable shoes are a must for exploring Singapore's maze of narrow lanes and alleys. In neighborhoods like Chinatown, Little India, and Kampong Glam (Arab St.), some of the most memorable sights are the small vignettes of local life only found at street level. In Chinatown, hawkers stir up fiery woks and old-timers play checkers in the park. In Little India, women weave flower garlands at the roadside, and some die-hards still chew betel and spit red goo in the drains. In Kampong Glam, back-alley boutiques and art galleries provide a welcome pocket of counterculture. Don't forget your camera.

• Witnessing Ceremonial Gore: It's the start of the Thaipusam festival, an annual Hindu religious occasion to express gratitude to Lord Subramaniam for granting their wishes in the previous year. To do this, they will carry kevadis, steel racks hung with fruits and flowers, held onto their bodies with skewers that dig into their flesh. Others will have rows of hooks piercing the thick skin on their backs -- the hooks attached to long leather straps that are pulled hard. Once ready, they will parade en masse, in full torture regalia, through the streets of Little India and Singapore's downtown to the Sri Thandayuthapani Temple. Singapore's Hindus celebrate Thaipusam every January into February, and like many other cultural and religious celebrations, foreign visitors are welcome to come and (respectfully) observe. If you're not in town for this unusual festival, you can catch ceremonial gore at annual events like Thimithi, the Birthday of the Monkey God, and the Festival of the Nine Emperor God later in the year.

• Getting Cultured at the Esplanade: After the blazing sun sets, Esplanade Park becomes cool in more ways than one. Inside the prickly domes of The Esplanade - Theatres on the Bay, audiences are moved by symphony orchestras, jazz ensembles, dance troupes, drama, and contemporary music. But don't miss the scene outside: Along the waterfront, a band shell hosts free performances by local and international bands for crowds of onlookers. The acts here are edgier than what goes on inside the theaters, and it's awe-inspiring to watch these performances with the towering city skyline in full view.

• Discovering the Rainforest: Singapore has primary, ancient, virgin rainforest located within its city limits, just a 15-minute cab ride from the city center. At Bukit Timah Nature Reserve, visitors will find well-marked trails with bridges and viewing platforms, playgrounds for children, and pavilions for short breaks. Under the shady canopy, there is a cornucopia of jungle flora and fauna -- exotic flowers, curious lizards, cheeky monkeys, and more.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

Best Dining Bets

• Hawker Centers: Think of them as shopping malls for food -- great food. For local cuisine, who needs a menu with pictures when you can walk around and select anything you want as it's prepared before your eyes?

• Yum Cha (Singapore): In a quaint shophouse tucked away in the bustle of Chinatown, this charming eatery serves delicious little bites of sumptuous Chinese dim sum. A perfect light lunch break from sightseeing in the heat.

• Chili Crab at UDMC Seafood Centre (Singapore): A true Singaporean favorite, chili crabs will cause every local to rise up in argument over where you can find the best in town. Head out to UDMC to try the juicy crabs cooked in a sweet chili sauce. Prepare to get messy!

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

The Best Buys

Take some extra money along to spend on handicrafts, black pearls, and tropical clothing.

Black Pearls: Long the specialty of French Polynesia and the Cook Islands, black pearls are now being produced in Fiji, and they are reasonably high-quality. The top farm is J. Hunter Pearls (tel. 885 0821; www.pearlsfiji.com) in Savusavu. The peculiarities of the seawater in Savusavu Bay result in unique yellow pearls known as Fiji Gold. The farm shop is the best place to buy them, but they are available in some hotel boutiques and in the Tappoo department stores in Nadi Town and elsewhere.

Handicrafts: Although many of the items you will see in souvenir shops are actually made in Asia, locally produced handicrafts are some of Fiji's best souvenir buys. The most widespread are hats, mats, and baskets woven of pandanus or other fibers, usually by women who have maintained this ancient art. Before the European traders brought printed cotton, Fijians used tapa, the beaten bark of the paper mulberry tree, known here as masi. The resulting cloth is painted with dyes made from natural substances, usually in geometric designs that have ancestries dating back thousands of years. Tapa is an excellent souvenir because it can be folded and brought back in a suitcase. Woodcarvings are also popular. Spears, war clubs, knives made from sharks' teeth, canoe prows, and cannibal forks are some examples. Many carvings, however, tend to be produced for the tourist trade and often lack the imagery of bygone days, and some are now machine-produced.

Tropical Clothing: Colorful hand-screened, hand-blocked, and hand-dyed fabrics are very popular in the islands for making dresses or the wraparound skirt known as a sulu in Fiji. Heat-sensitive dyes are applied by hand to cotton, which is then laid in the sun for several hours. Flowers, leaves, and other designs are placed on the fabric, and, as the heat of the sun darkens and sets the dyes, the shadows from these objects leave their images behind on the finished product.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

The Best Adventures

• Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve (Singapore): Every year during the winter months, flocks of migrating birds from as far north as Siberia vacation in the warm waters of this unique mangrove swamp park. Easily traversed by a wooden walkway, the park will never disappoint for glimpses of stunning wildlife.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

The Best Cultural Experiences

The Fijians are justly proud of their ancient culture, and they eagerly inform anyone who asks about both their ancient and modern ways. Here are some of the best ways to learn about their lifestyle and explore the environment of their islands.

Fijian Village Visits (nationwide): Many tours from Nadi, the Coral Coast, and most offshore resorts include visits to traditional Fijian villages, whose residents stage welcoming ceremonies (featuring the slightly narcotic drink kava, or yaqona as it's known in Fiji). The hosts then show visitors around and explain how the old and the new combine in today's villages.

Kalevu South Pacific Cultural Centre (the Coral Coast; tel. 652 0200; www.fijiculturalcentre.com): Opposite Shangri-La's Fijian Resort & Spa, this cultural center exhibits handicraft making, cooking, and skills of Fiji, Samoa, and other Pacific islands.

Sigatoka Sand Dunes National Park (near Sigatoka, the Coral Coast; tel. 652 0243): Ancient Fijian burial grounds and pieces of pottery dating from 5 B.C. to A.D. 240 have been found among these dunes, which stretch for several miles along Viti Levu's southern coast.

Tavuni Hill Fort (near Sigatoka, the Coral Coast; tel. 650 0818): This best example of a traditional Fijian fort stands atop a hill east of Sigatoka. It renders both a glimpse of what war was like in the old days and a splendid view over the Sigatoka River Valley.

Kula Eco Park (Korotogo, the Coral Coast; tel. 650 0505; www.fijiwild.com): Opposite the Outrigger on the Lagoon Fiji, this nature park exhibits most of Fiji's endemic species of birds, reptiles, and mammals. Children are given a chance to handle some of the creatures in a petting zoo.

Waterfall and Cave Tours (the Coral Coast): On walking tours offered by Adventures in Paradise Fiji (tel. 652 0833; www.adventuresinparadisefiji.com), you will be welcomed into a Fijian village plus see a cave and one of the country's many waterfalls.

Arts Village Cultural Centre (Pacific Harbour; tel. 345 0065; www.artsvillage.com): A reconstructed traditional Fijian village built of thatch and other local materials is the centerpiece of this cultural center, which has fire-walking shows in addition to demonstrations of old-time Fijian skills.

Rafting on the Navua River (Pacific Harbour): The Navua River begins in the highlands and ends on the southern coast of Viti Levu, on the way cutting two gorges, one of them dubbed the "Grand Canyon of Fiji." Rafting on the river -- either by inflatable raft through the white-water gorge with Rivers Fiji (tel. 800/446-2411 in the U.S., or 345 0147; www.riversfiji.com) or while riding lashed-together bamboo poles (a bilibili raft) through the lazy lowlands with Discover Fiji Tours (tel. 345 0180; www.discoverfijitours.com) -- is one of Fiji's top outdoor experiences.

Fiji Museum (Thurston Park, Suva; tel. 331 5944; www.fijimuseum.org.fj): The small but very good Fiji Museum has a terrific collection of war clubs, cannibal forks, and other ancient artifacts, plus the rudder of HMS Bounty.

Suva Municipal Market (Usher St. at Rodwell Rd., Suva; no phone): You'll see an enormous amount of tropical produce for sale at Suva's main supplier of food. The market is especially active on Saturday morning.

Rainforest Walks (Savusavu): No wires are in place to allow exploration of the canopy, but earthly gravel pathways lead to a waterfall in Waisali Rainforest Reserve (no phone), a 116-hectare (290-acre) national forest up in the central mountains of Vanua Levu.

Adventure Cruises on the Tui Tai (Savusavu; tel. 885 3032; www.tuitai.com): Passengers on the small but luxurious sailing ship Tui Tai spend much of their time snorkeling, diving, and mountain biking, but they also get to visit Fijian villages on remote islands such as Kioa.

Bouma Falls and Lavena Coastal Walk (Taveuni): Although Taveuni is best known for world-class scuba diving, it's also one of the best places in Fiji to explore the mountainous interior. Bouma Falls National Heritage Park (tel. 888 0390) has three waterfalls, and the Lavena Coastal Walk (tel. 923 9080) leads along the island's nearly deserted east coast to yet another falls -- though you'll need to swim to reach it.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

The Best Beaches

• Sentosa Island (Singapore): The three beaches on Sentosa are just about the best you'll find in Singapore, which isn't really known for its beaches. They're lively, with watersports and beach activities plus food and drink. Every so often, you'll find an all-night dance party here. However, if you really need pristine seclusion, you'll have to head for Malaysia.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

The Best Dive Sites

With nutrient-rich waters welling up from the Tonga Trench offshore and being carried by strong currents funneling through narrow passages, Fiji is famous for some of the world's most colorful soft corals.

All the islands have excellent scuba diving and snorkeling, and all but a few of the resorts either have their own dive operations or can easily make arrangements with a local company. Many dive operators will take snorkelers along; that's my favorite way to go snorkeling in Fiji.

Shark Diving (Pacific Harbour): The dive masters lure tiger, bull, and other sharks by feeding them in these exciting dives off southern Viti Levu. It's not for novices.

Beqa Lagoon (off Beqa Island): Beqa Lagoon has soft corals, especially at Frigate Passage, where they seem to fall over one another.

Great Astrolabe Reef (off Kadavu): Skirting the eastern and southern sides of Kadavu, the Great Astrolabe Reef has lost much of its reef-top soft corals but still has plenty over the sides. It also attracts Fiji's largest concentration of manta rays.

Namena Marine Protected Reserve (off Savusavu): This magnificent barrier reef that nearly surrounds Moody's Namena resort is now a protected marine reserve populated by both soft and hard corals.

Somosomo Strait (off Taveuni): The narrow passage between Vanua Levu and Taveuni is Fiji's most famous site for soft corals, especially its Great White Wall and Rainbow Reef. The snorkeling is very good here, too, but watch out for strong currents and sharks.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

The Best Hotel Bargains

• Perak Hotel (Singapore): This family-run budget hotel on the edge of Little India is full of charm and friendly people. It's easy to meet fellow backpackers in the cozy lobby cafe and share stories and travel tips.

• Traders Hotel Singapore (Singapore): Value-for-money is the name of the game here. All sorts of promotional packages, self-service launderettes, vending machines, and a checkout lounge are just a few of the offerings that make this the most convenient hotel in the city.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

The Best of the Old South Seas

Fiji is developing rapidly, with modern, fast-paced towns replacing what were once small villages and sleepy backwater ports. However, a few places still harken back to the old South Sea days of coconut planters, beach bums, and missionaries.

Lautoka: Fiji's second-largest city is still small enough to walk around, and it's genteel citizens normally won't hassle you to "come in, take a look" at their shops. The town was laid out by the British, with broad streets, shady sidewalks, and pleasant parks.

Sigatoka: The riverfront town of Sigatoka, on the Coral Coast, isn't as pleasing to the eye as Lautoka, but it still makes its living not from tourists but from trading with the farmers in the picturesque Sigatoka River Valley. It's the only place in Fiji where I've seen Muslim women wearing head-to-toe burkas.

Kadavu: The long, skinny island of Kadavu, some 100km (60 miles) south of Viti Levu, has a road on one end, but you must take a boat to reach all its best spots. That's one bit of evidence of how little Kadavu has changed. Unlike Fiji's other large islands, it has no sugar-cane farms, no mongooses, no iguanas, no myna birds, and few if any Fiji Indians. The result: It's like the rest of Fiji used to be.

Suva: The British are long gone, and Suva today is the largest, most vibrant city in the South Pacific islands. But among its new high-rise office towers are grand colonial buildings, orderly parks, and a mixed population that dates back to the days of the Raj.

Rakiraki: On the northern tip of Viti Levu, the Fijian village of Rakiraki and its surrounding countryside seem caught in a time warp, provided you don't notice the few small real-estate developments creeping into the hills (will we Westerners ever stop wanting to buy our own piece of paradise?).

Levuka (Ovalau Island): No other town has remained the same after a century as much as has Levuka, Fiji's first European-style town and its original colonial capital in the 1870s. The dramatic cliffs of Ovalau Island hemmed in the town and prevented growth, so the government moved to Suva in 1882. Levuka looks very much as it did then, with a row of clapboard general stores along picturesque Beach Street.

Savusavu: You're apt to see more Americans strolling the streets of picturesque Savusavu than anywhere else in Fiji, since so many of them have purchased land near there, but the town still has the feel of the days when schooners would pick up cargo at places like the Copra Shed.

Taveuni: Fiji's lush "Garden Island" has changed little since Europeans bought land holdings and started coconut plantations in the 19th century. You can stay with descendants of one of those early planters at Vatuwiri Farm Resort (tel. 888 0316; www.vatuwirifiji.com). With a large population of indigenous plants and animals, Taveuni is a nature lover's delight and the best place to go hiking in Fiji.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

The Best Luxury Hotels

• Raffles Hotel (Singapore): For old-world opulence, Raffles is second to none. It's pure fantasy of the days when tigers still lurked around the perimeters.

• Shangri-La Hotel (Singapore): What sets this hotel apart from other city properties is its sprawling grounds. Shang is a meticulously landscaped tropical oasis, with lush garden views from every angle. Three individual wings give you a choice of accommodations styles: urban contemporary, natural resort style, and oriental opulence.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

The Best Markets

• Arab Street (Singapore): Even though Singapore is a shopper's paradise, it could still use more places like Arab Street. Small shops selling everything from textiles to handicrafts line the street. Bargaining is welcome.










Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

The Best Museums

• National Museum of Singapore (Singapore): The Singapore story is told through multimedia exhibits that capture not just the island's colonial past, but the culture that has emerged since the nation's independence.

• Asian Civilisations Museum (Singapore): This extremely well-presented museum documents the evolutionary and cultural history of the region's major ethnic groups. A very informative afternoon.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

The Best Nightlife

• Singapore, the whole city: Nightlife is sophisticated in Singapore, where locals have more money for recreation and fun. Take the time to choose the place that suits your personality. Jazz club? Techno disco? Cocktail lounge? Wine bar? Good old pub? The city has it all.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

The Best Shopping

• Batik: While most of the batiks you find in Singapore come from Indonesia, many in Malaysia are made at factories that you can often tour. The Indonesian prints usually show traditional motif and colors, while Malaysian designs can be far more modern. Look for batik silk as well.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

The Best Offbeat Travel Experiences

Some cynics might say that a visit to Fiji itself is an offbeat experience, but these five really are.

Getting Asked to Dance (nationwide): I've seen so many traditional Fijian meke dance shows that I now stand by the rear door, ready to beat a quick escape before those lovely young women can grab my hand and force me to make a fool of myself by joining them on stage. It's part of the tourist experience at all resorts, and it's all in good fun.

Rise of the Balolo (nationwide): Dawn after the full moon in October sees thousands of Fijians out on the reefs with buckets to snare the wiggling balolo, a coral worm that comes out to mate only then. Actually, the rear ends of the worms break off and swim to the surface, spewing eggs and sperm in a reproductive frenzy lasting only a few hours. Fijians consider the slimy balolo to be their caviar.

Sliding Through a Jungle Canopy (Pacific Harbour): Those of you who have been to Costa Rica or the Amazon may think it's an ordinary thing to do, but sliding along cables strung across a rainforest canopy in Fiji strikes me as offbeat. You can do just that with ZIP Fiji (tel. 930 0545; www.zip-fiji.com) in Pacific Harbour.

Jet-Skiing to Your Hotel (Taveuni): You can get to your Fiji hotel by taxi, ferry, boat, plane, seaplane, helicopter, even on foot, but only at Paradise Taveuni (tel./fax 888 0125; www.paradiseinfiji.com) will you have the option of riding a jet ski.

Living on a Copra Plantation (Taveuni): The first successful industry in Fiji was extracting the meat from coconuts and drying it into copra, from which the oil is extracted for cooking, cosmetics, and other products. In the 19th century, Europeans created large copra plantations, many of which are still operational. You can actually share one of them with the descendants of the original English planter at Vatuwiri Farm Resort (tel. 888 0316; www.vatuwirifiji.com).

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

The Best Places to Get Away from It All

Some of Fiji's offshore resorts are better at getting away from it all than others. The ones I list below are small enough that you won't have a lot of company, and -- since they are on islands all by themselves -- you won't have people from another property walking along your stretch of private beach.

Wadigi Island Resort (Wadigi Island, the Mamanucas; tel. 672 0901; www.wadigi.com): On a tiny islet, Wadigi Island Resort has just three units, all on top of a peak with a glorious view of nearby Malolo Island and the surrounding Mamanucas. It's expensive and very private, so no one will care if you run around naked.

Matamanoa Island Resort (Matamanoa Island, the Mamanucas; tel. 666 0511; www.matamanoa.com): In the westernmost of the Mamanucas, this remote little resort is one of Fiji's most reasonably priced romantic resorts, and its beach is superb.

Yasawa Island Resort and Spa (Yasawa Island, the Yasawas; tel. 672 2266; www.yasawa.com): Another great honeymoon choice, Yasawa Island Resort and Spa has no neighbors and is therefore very private. Its secluded honeymoon bure (bungalow) has its own private beach and pool.

Lalati Resort & Spa (Beqa Island; tel. 347 2033; www.lalati-fiji.com): Beside picturesque Malumu Bay and enjoying a fine view of the Beqa Lagoon and Viti Levu's southern shore, Lalati appeals to couples looking to dive, or to just get away. The full-service spa is augmented by an air-conditioned lounge with TV and DVD player, and the outdoor pool helps compensate for a poor beach.

Royal Davui Island Fiji (in Beqa Lagoon; tel. 330 7090; www.royaldavui.com): On a tiny, rocky islet in Beqa Lagoon, this luxury resort is set above a small beach. Bungalows are built in an old-growth hillside, but guests are compensated by marvelous views from each unit's plunge pool-equipped veranda.

Dive Kadavu/Matana Beach Resort (Kadavu Island; tel. 368 3502; www.divekadavu.com): Only a 10-minute boat ride from Kadavu's airstrip, this little resort has been a top dive base since 1983, but it has begun using the name Matana Beach Resort to take advantage of its location on one of Fiji's most beautiful beaches.

Matava -- The Astrolabe Hideaway (Kadavu Island; tel. 333 6222; www.matava.com): Much farther than Dive Kadavu from the airstrip -- at least 45 minutes by small boat -- Matava is so eco-friendly it has no air-conditioners and turns on the solar-powered lights only at night. Made primarily of thatch and other natural materials, its bungalows are both basic and charming. It's close to many Great Astrolabe Reef dive sights, but it also specializes in kayaking trips and bird-watching.

The Wakaya Club (Wakaya Island; tel. 344 0128; www.wakaya.com): Except for a few private villas owned by Hollywooders and other well-heeled types, Fiji's top resort has all of Wakaya Island to itself. Nicole Kidman, Russell Crowe, and other Aussie celebs have been known to take a break at Wakaya on their way home.

Moody's Namena (Namenalala Island, off Savusavu; tel. 881 3764; www.moodysnamenafiji.com): You either take a seaplane or ride a boat for more than an hour to reach Joan and Tom Moody's little resort. Not only is Namenalala surrounded by the fabulous Namea Reef, but the island also has five beaches, four of them so private the pathways leading to them have OCCUPIED/UNOCCUPIED signs to prevent your fellow guests from disturbing you.

Matangi Island Resort (Matagi Island, off Taveuni; tel. 888/628-2644 or 888 0260; www.matangiisland.com): This couples-only resort's honeymoon bungalow up in a Pacific almond tree is both charming and private, and you can walk over the hill and have the gorgeous beach in Horseshoe Bay all to yourselves.

Qamea Resort and Spa (Qamea Island, off Taveuni; tel. 866/867-2632 or 888 0220; www.qamea.com): Qamea's two luxurious honeymoon bungalows are situated on one end of the resort, although I prefer the two other villas with their own plunge pools.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.