Nightlife

Visit one of the tourist information centers for current English-language schedules of the month's special events. The monthly Ospite di Venezia is distributed free or online at www.unospitedivenezia.it and is extremely helpful but usually available only in the more expensive hotels. If you're looking for serious nocturnal action, you're in the wrong town. Your best bet is to sit in the moonlit Piazza San Marco and listen to the cafes' outdoor orchestras, with the illuminated basilica before you -- the perfect opera set.

The Performing Arts

Venice has a long and rich tradition of classical music, and there's always a concert going on somewhere. Several churches regularly host classical music concerts (with an emphasis on the baroque) by local and international artists. This was, after all, the home of Vivaldi. One of the more popular spots to hear the music of Vivaldi and his contemporaries is Chiesa San Vidal, between Campo Santo Stefano and the Accademia bridge. Unfortunately, the Chiesa di Vivaldi (officially, the Chiesa Santa Maria della Pietà), once the most popular venue for hearing Vivaldi's works, no longer hosts concerts. Though this was the best venue to attend a Vivaldi concert, there are still many other places to catch a show. A number of other churches and confraternities (such as San Stae, the Scuola di San Giovanni Evangelista, and the Scuola di San Rocco) host concerts. People dressed in period costumes stand around in heavily trafficked spots near San Marco and Rialto passing out brochures advertising the classical music concerts, so you'll have no trouble finding up-to-date information.

The city still remembers well when the famous Teatro La Fenice (San Marco 1965, on Campo San Fantin; tel. 041-2424 or 041-786-511; www.teatrolafenice it) went up in flames in January 1996. For centuries it was Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. Carpenters and artisans were on standby to begin working around the clock to re-create the teatro (built in 1836) according to archival designs. Finally, on December 14, 2003, La Fenice (which means "the Phoenix") arose from the ashes as Ricardo Muti conducted the Orchestra and Chorus of La Fenice in an inaugural concert in a completely renovated hall. Its performances now follow a regular schedule.

Cafes

Venice is a quiet town in the evening and offers very little in the way of nightlife. For tourists and locals alike, Venetian nightlife mainly centers on the many cafe/bars in one of the world's most remarkable piazzas: Piazza San Marco. It is also the most expensive and touristed place to linger over a Campari or cappuccino, but it's a splurge that should not be dismissed too readily.

One of the most atmospheric and hidden places to have a spritz (soda water, white wine, and your choice of Campari or Aperol) is Taverna del Campiello Remer (Cannaregio 5701; tel. 349-336-5168), in the courtyard of the same name, right on the Grand Canal close to the Rialto bridge. The nightly live music -- feel free to get up and sing, if you're any good -- along with the expertly staffed bar, extensive wine list, and big portions of prosciutto and melon, are a recipe for a romantic night out, especially in this magically restored cantina, right by the canal. It generally stays open until at least 1am (closed Wed).

The nostalgic 18th-century Caffè Florian (San Marco 56A-59A; tel. 041-241-7286), on the south side of the piazza, is the most famous (closed Wed in winter) and most theatrical inside; have a Bellini (prosecco and fresh peach nectar) at the back bar for half what you'd pay at an indoor table; alfresco seating is even more expensive when the band plays on, but it's worth every cent. It's said that when Casanova escaped from the prisons in the Doge's Palace, he stopped here for a coffee before fleeing Venice.

On the opposite side of the square at San Marco 133-134 is the old-world Caffè Lavena (tel. 041-522-4070; closed Tues in winter), and at no. 120 is Caffè Quadri (tel. 041-522-2105; www.quadrivenice.com; closed Mon in winter), the first to introduce coffee to Venice, with a restaurant upstairs that sports Piazza San Marco views. At all spots, a cappuccino, tea, or Coca-Cola at a table will set you back about 7€. But no one will rush you, and if the sun is warm and the orchestras are playing, there's no more beautiful public open-air salon in the world. Around the corner (no. 11) and in front of the pink-and-white marble Palazzo Ducale is the best deal, Caffè Chioggia (tel. 041-528-5011; closed Sun). Come here at midnight and watch the Moors strike the hour atop the Clock Tower from your outside table, while the quartet or pianist plays everything from quality jazz to pop until the wee hours.

If the weather is chilly or inclement, or for no other reason than to revel in the history and drama of Venice's grand-dame hotel, dress up and stroll into the landmark lobby of the Danieli hotel and Bar Dandolo (Castello 4196 on Riva degli Schiavoni, east of Piazza San Marc; tel. 041-522-6480). Tea or coffee will set you back only 7.50€, and you can sit forever, taking in the former residential palazzo of a 15th-century doge. A pianist plays from 7 to 9pm and from 10pm to 12:30am. Drinks are far more expensive; ask for the price list before ordering.

Clubs, Birrerie & Gelaterie

Although Venice boasts an old and prominent university, clubs and discos barely enjoy their 15 minutes of popularity before changing hands or closing down (some are open only in the summer months). Young Venetians tend to go to the Lido or mainland Mestre.

For just plain hanging out in the late afternoon and early evening, popular squares that serve as meeting points include Campo San Bartolomeo, at the foot of the Rialto Bridge, and nearby Campo San Luca; you'll see Venetians of all ages milling about engaged in animated conversation, particularly from 5pm until dinnertime. In late-night hours, for low prices and low pretension, I'm fond of the Campo Santa Margherita, a huge open campo about halfway between the train station and Ca' Rezzonico. Look for the popular Green Pub (no. 3053; closed Thurs), Bareto Rosso (no. 2963; closed Sun), and Bar Salus (no. 3112). Campo Santo Stefano is also worth a visit to sit and sample the goods at the Bar/Gelateria Paolin (no. 2962; closed Fri), one of the city's best ice cream sources. Its runner-up, Gelateria Nico, is on the Zattere in Dorsoduro 922, south of the Gallerie dell'Accademia. For occasional evenings of live music, cabaret, or just a relaxed late-night hangout, consider the ever-popular Le Bistrot de Venise.

Note: Most bars are open Monday to Saturday from 8pm to midnight.

The Devil's Forest Pub, San Marco 5185, on Calle Stagneri (tel. 041-520-0623; www.devilsforest.com; vaporetto: San Marco), offers the outsider an authentic chance to take in the convivial atmosphere and find out where Venetians hang out. It's popular for lunch with the neighborhood merchants and shop owners, and ideal for relaxed socializing over a beer and a host of games like backgammon, chess, and Trivial Pursuit. A variety of simple Irish dishes are served. It's open daily 10am to 1am.

Bácaro Jazz (tel. 041-285-249; vaporetto: Rialto) is a happening cocktail bar (the Bellinis are great) with restaurant seating in the back (tasty Venetian cuisine from 8€), across from the Rialto post office at San Marco 5546, just north of Campo San Bartolomeo (the San Marco side of Rialto Bridge). It's a mix of jazzy music (a bit too loud), rough plank walls, industrial-steel tables, and a corrugated aluminum ceiling. It's open Thursday to Tuesday 11am to 2am (happy hour 2-7:30pm).

Being the only real pub in town, the Inishark Irish Pub, at Castello 5787 (Calle Mondo Novo just off Salizzada San Lio, near Santa Maria Formosa; tel. 041-523-5300; vaporetto: Rialto) is a big draw for young locals as well as tourists. As in every self-respecting Irish pub this side of Dublin, here you'll find Guinness on tap and the walls full of Irish paraphernalia. There is an enormous flat screen television where they show soccer matches and other sporting events.

Good food at reasonable prices would be enough to regularly pack Paradiso Perduto, Cannaregio 2540, on Fondamenta della Misericordia (tel. 041-720-581; vaporetto: Ferrovie), but its biggest draw is the live jazz performed on a small stage several nights a week. Popular with Americans and other foreigners living in Venice, this bar was once largely devoid of tourists, primarily because of its hard-to-find location, but lately it looks as if the word is out. The good selection of well-prepared pizzas and pastas goes for under 10€; arrive early for a table. It's open Thursday to Tuesday 7pm to 1 or sometimes 2am.

The party spills well out from the plate-glass windows of Bar Torino, San Marco 459 (Campo San Luca; tel. 041-522-3914), a bar that has brought this square to life after dark with live jazz many nights, unusual beer from Lapland, and good panini. It's open Tuesday to Sunday 7am to 2am.

In 1932, famed restaurateur and hotelier Giuseppe Cipriani opened Harry's Bar right at the San Marco-Vallaresso vaporetto stop, San Marco 1323 (Calle Vallaresso; tel. 041-528-5777). Named for his son Arrigo (Italian for Harry), it has been a preferred retreat for everyone from Hemingway -- when he didn't want a bloody mary, he mixed his own drink: 15 parts gin, 1 martini -- to Woody Allen. Regulars prefer the elegant front room to the upstairs dining room (the cooking is decent, and they invented carpaccio, a dish of thinly sliced raw beef now served throughout Italy). Harry's is most famous for inventing the Bellini, a mix of champagne and peach juice. Prices -- for both drinks and the fancy cuisine -- are rather extravagant.

Dance Clubs

Venice is a quiet town at night and offers little in the line of dance clubs. Evenings are best spent lingering over a late dinner, having a pint in a birrerie, or nursing a glass of prosecco in one of Piazza San Marco's tony outdoor cafes.

If you really need that disco fix, you're best off at Piccolo Mondo, Dorsoduro 1056, near the Accademia (tel. 041-520-0371; vaporetto: Accademia). Billed as a disco/pub, it serves sandwiches during lunch to the sounds of America's latest dance music, offers a happy hour in the late afternoon in winter, and often features live music. But the only reason you'd want to come is if you want a disco night (summer only); the club is frequented mostly by curious foreigners and the young to not-so-young Venetians who seek them out. It's open daily from 10pm to 4am in summer, and 10am to 4pm and 5 to 8pm in winter.

The Casino

From May to October, Casino Municipale di Venezia, located at Palazzo Vendramin Calergi, Cannaregio 2040 (Fondamenta Vendramin; tel. 041-529-7111; www.casinovenezia.it; vaporetto: San Marcuola), moves to its nondescript summer location on the Lido, where a visit is not as strongly recommended as during the winter months, when it is housed in this handsome 15th-century palazzo on the Grand Canal. Venice's tradition of gambling goes back to the glory days of the republic and lives on in this august Renaissance palace built by Mauro Codussi. Though not of the caliber of Monte Carlo and, on a midweek winter's night, occasionally slow, this is one of only four casinos on Italian territory -- and what a remarkable stage setting it is! Richard Wagner lived and died in a wing of this palazzo in 1883.

Check with your hotel before setting forth; some offer free passes for their guests. Otherwise, if you're not a gambler or a curiosity seeker, it may not be worth the admission cost of 5€ to get in. Tip: If you pay a higher 10€ admission fee, the casino will provide you with a 10€ credit for gambling, so your admission could actually be free -- and perhaps, if you're lucky, better than free. Note: A passport and jacket are required for entrance (you can rent the jacket there, the passport you have to bring yourself), and the casino is open daily from 3:30pm (11am for the slots) to 2:45am (3:45am Fri and Sat).

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.