Restaurants

Haifa caters to every culinary taste and pocketbook. The city's Falafel Row, at the corner of Haneviim and Hechalutz streets, in Hadar, not far downhill from the Nordau Pedestrian Mall, is one of the best spots in Israel for falafel; even an average Haifa falafel stand usually can hold its own with the best places in other towns. Haifa is also home to very authentic, popular Arabic restaurants, as well as excellent Continental and international-style dining spots.

Hadar/Nordau Street Mall -- After observing the success of Jerusalem's lively Ben-Yehuda Mall, Haifa decided to take the plunge and turn Nordau Street, a block above Herzl Street, into a tree-lined pedestrian area. The result has brightened the whole Hadar District, but the cafes and light meal spots here basically cater to those people who work in the downtown center, and at press time massive street renovation makes this a difficult area to visit.

Central Carmel -- Note: The Carmelit stop for all the restaurants in this area, unless otherwise noted, is Central Carmel.

German Colony -- This neighborhood, filled with stone cottages and mansions built by German Christians in the late 19th century, has great potential for charm and gentrification. The Haifa municipality is helping things along with the construction of a pedestrian promenade on the neighborhood's main street, Ben-Gurion Boulevard, which is perfectly aligned with the dramatic Baha'i Shrine farther up the slopes of Mount Carmel. At twilight, the view of the illuminated Baha'i gardens and shrine is very dramatic.

Bat Galim -- Bat Galim means "Daughter of the Waves" in Hebrew, and you'll know how it got its name when you stroll along its beachfront promenade. If you take a ride on the aerial cable car between the beach and Mount Carmel, at the lower terminal you'll be right at the end of Bat Galim. The restaurants I mention below are all within a 5-minute walk of the terminal.

If you're not coming via cable car, you can easily walk over from the main bus or train stations -- Bat Galim is located behind the stations. If you're at the Central Station, go through the underground tunnel that connects it to the train station; when you come out of the train station, you'll be in Bat Galim. You can also take bus no. 40, 41, 42, or 44, which go from the bus station to the cable car terminal; or if you're driving, come across at Hel Ha-Yam, the main boulevard running just east of the bus station.

Dado Beach -- Haifa is blessed with fabulous beaches within its municipal boundaries, but few tourists get to see them. Dado Beach (Hof Dado), just south of the Le Méridien Hotel, is one of the most accessible, with white sands, open waves, and a number of clubs, pubs, and restaurants.

Cafes

On the loft balcony above the dairy self-service Cafe Carmel in the vast Panorama Center is the Viennese Gallery (tel. 04/835-2222). The view is incredible from up here, and the distinctive architecture does everything to maximize the view, with a curved, two-story wall. The Viennese Gallery serves mostly desserts and coffees, but there is also a selection of quiches, salads, omelets, soups, and cold platters. Although the surroundings are fancy, prices are really quite reasonable. You can get a gorgeous Viennese pastry with a whole pot of freshly brewed tea or coffee for NIS 32 ($8/£4), but there are also more lavish Viennese fantasy concoctions with rich ice creams. You'll find it open from 10am to 11pm daily (until midnight Fri-Sat). If you're not a guest at the Panorama Hotel and therefore unable to put the tab on your VAT-free bill, you will pay an extra 15.5%.

You'll also find Kapulski's Café, in the Panorama Shopping Mall, facing Ha-Nassi Blvd., just under the Panorama Towers. Kapulski's is less fancy, but is also a good place for tea or coffee and very good pastries, as well as salads, quiches, and other nicely prepared lighter meals. Prices range from NIS 20 to NIS 50 ($5-$13/£2.50-£6.25). Kapulski's closes for Shabbat. Greg Café is Haifa's answer to Starbucks, Aroma, and every other dispenser of caffeine. With branches at the Cinémathèque/Auditorium on Ha-Nassi Street and at Haifa University, it serves fabulous coffee and is good for breakfast and for takeout.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.