Travel: San Carlos de Bariloche

Showing posts with label San Carlos de Bariloche. Show all posts

Friday, November 29, 2013

Introduction

1,621km (1,005 miles) SW of Buenos Aires; 180km (112 miles) S of San Martín de los Andes

Just mention Bariloche to an Argentine, and you'll inspire a whimsical sigh. Officially known as San Carlos de Bariloche, this city represents the good life in the national consciousness. With stunning natural scenery and fine cuisine, it's a winter and summer playground for vacationing Argentines, and it's practically a rite of passage for Argentine youth to explore nature in the Nahuel Huapi National Park here, with Bariloche in the middle.

Bariloche is blessed with a strategic geographic position. With the rugged plains of the Patagonian Steppe to the east, the towering snowy peaks of the Andes to the west, and the glistening and grand Nahuel Huapi Lake in front, opportunities for adventure are abundant. Even if you're not much of an adventurer, you'll still find plenty of pleasant sightseeing tours, boat trips, boutiques, driving excursions, and fine dining to keep you busy. Or just park yourself wherever the view is good and soak it all in.

The city itself embodies a strange juxtaposition: an urban city plopped down in the middle of beautiful wilderness. Unfortunately, Argentine migrants fleeing Buenos Aires, an ever-growing tourism industry, and 2 decades of unchecked development have left a cluttered mess in what was once an idyllic mountain town. Bits and pieces of the charming architecture influenced by German, Swiss, and English immigration are still in evidence, but "el centro" of Bariloche can be tacky and chaotic. Visitors to Bariloche are sometimes overwhelmed by its hodgepodge of ugly apartment buildings and clamorous discos, and the crowds that descend on this area from mid-December until the end of February and again during ski season in July. A visit to Bariloche, however, does not necessarily mean staying in (or spending hardly any time) in the city's core. Your best bet is to spend less time in town, and more on the lake or in the mountains. Drive 10 minutes outside town, and you'll be surrounded again by thick forests, rippling lakes, and snowcapped peaks that rival the Alps. If you're looking for a quiet vacation, you'd be better off lodging outside the city center, on the road to the Llao Llao Peninsula or in the town of Villa La Angostura. On the flip side, Bariloche offers a wealth of services, including the area's largest and best-serviced airport.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

Planning a Trip

Getting There

By Plane -- The Aeropuerto Bariloche (tel. 02944/426162) is 13km (8 miles) from downtown. Buses to the city center line up outside the arrival area; they're roughly scheduled to coordinate with flight arrivals. A taxi to the center costs about $15 (£10) -- a bargain if you have a group of two or three people. Aerolíneas Argentinas, Mitre 185 (tel. 02944/422548; www.aerolineas.com.ar), runs at least three daily flights from Buenos Aires; in summer, it operates two daily flights from El Calafate as well. LAN, Mitre 534 (tel. 800/999-9526; www.lan.com), runs two or three flights a day from Buenos Aires. Lineas Aéreas del Estado, Quaglia 238, #8 (tel. 02944/423562; www.lade.com.ar), serves small destinations in the area such as Neuquen and Esquel. It's nearly impossible to make it to Bariloche from North America or Europe in a day, as you must change airports in Buenos Aires. As of 2008, the Brazilian airline TAM (tel. 888/235-9826; www.tam.com.br) has twice-weekly flights from Sao Paolo.

By Bus -- The Terminal de Omnibus (tel. 02944/432860) is at Av. 12 de Octubre 2400; a dozen companies serve most major destinations in Argentina and Chile. Via TAC (tel. 02944/434727) schedules three daily arrivals from Buenos Aires and daily service from El Bolsón, Esquel, Mendoza, and Córdoba. Vía Bariloche (tel. 02944/432444) has eight daily arrivals from Buenos Aires (the trip lasts about 20 hr.) and one daily trip from Mar del Plata. Andesmar (tel. 02944/430211) has service from Mendoza, Río Gallegos, and Neuquén, and service from Osorno, Valdivia, and Puerto Montt in Chile. For long trips, opt for the slightly more expensive (usually $15/£10 more) coche cama or supercama for chairs that practically become beds. In addition, there are a few daily buses from San Martín de los Andes via the scenic Siete Lagos (Seven Lakes) route (only during the summer); from Villa La Angostura, try Ko-Ko (tel. 02944/431135).

By Car -- Motorists can reach Bariloche from San Martín via several picturesque routes. The 200km (124-mile) scenic Siete Lagos route, from San Martín de los Andes, follows rutas 234, 231, and 237 (avoid this route when it's raining, as the dirt roads turn to mud). The 160km (99-mile) Paso Córdoba follows rutas 234, 63, and 237. The safest route for night driving or crummy weather, the Collón Curá runs 260km (161 miles) along rutas 234, 40, and 237; it's the longest route, but it's entirely paved. To get to El Bolsón, follow RN 258 south; continue down 40 to get to Esquel. To cross into Chile, take the Puyehue Pass via RN 231 (through Villa La Angostura); during periods of heavy snowfall, chains are required. The drive from Buenos Aires will take you upwards of 20 hours, and there are few pit stops en route. Driving here from Buenos Aires, or similarly far destinations such as El Calafate and Mendoza, is not recommended.

Traveling by Boat to Chile -- Cruce Andino is the name of the company now running the spectacular lake-crossing journey from Bariloche over the border (and the Andes Mountains) to the Chilean Lake District. It's a boat-and-bus combination that terminates in Lago Todos los Santos, near Ensenada and Puerto Varas, although it can also be done in reverse, from Chile to Bariloche. If you're planning to visit Chile, it's a superb option that allows you to take in the beauty of the Andes and the volcanoes, rivers, and waterfalls in the mountain range. I don't recommended making this journey during heavy rain. The trip can take 1 long day or 2 days, with an overnight in the Hotel Peulla or the recommended Hotel Natura in Chile. The 1-day trip costs $230 (£156) per person for the boat trip (including lunch), and an average of $310 (£211) per person based on double occupancy for an overnight at the Hotel Natura in Peulla, Chile. Book at any travel agency or from Cruce Andino's offices in Bariloche (tel. 02944/425444; www.cruceandino.com).

Getting Around

By Foot -- The city is compact enough to explore on foot. Most visitors spend just a few hours touring the city, however, and then use it as a base for exploring the region. The main streets for shopping and tourist agencies are Mitre and San Martín/Moreno. The center of town is the scenic Centro Cívico (Civic Center) plaza. From here, distances are measured in kilometers to the east or west. While you may be tempted to try to walk into town along the lakeside road, it's a very busy street that isn't very enjoyable for walking; better to hop in a taxi or take the bus.

By Car -- Most savvy travelers rent a car to visit this area. You'll need wheels if you're staying outside the city center or planning to explore the sinuous roads that pass through exceptionally scenic landscapes such as the Circuito Chico. All travel agencies offer bus excursions to these areas, which is another way to see them if you don't drive. Rental agencies, such as Budget, Dollar, Hertz, and Avis, have kiosks at the airport as well as a number of downtown offices: Budget, Mitre 106 (tel. 02944/422482); AI Rent a Car, Av. San Martín 127 (tel. 02944/436041); Dollar, Villegas 282 (tel. 02944/430333); Hertz, Quaglia 165 (tel. 02944/423457); Bariloche Rent a Car, Moreno 115 (tel. 02944/427638); and Localiza, V.A. O'Connor 602 (tel. 02944/435374). Rates are reasonable, starting at around $55 (£37) per day. Driving west of town, you have two options: the direct Pioneros road that locals use, a few blocks uphill from the lake, or Bustillo, the lakeside road. Distances, and addresses, are measured in kilometers west from the Civic Center.

By Bus -- Bariloche's public bus system is cheap and efficient, whether you're heading to the Cerro Catedral ski resort or exploring the lakeside route of the Circuito Chico. Regular buses depart from Calle San Martín, just in front of the National Park headquarters, or from Moreno and Palacios. Bus no. 20 follows the shores of Lago Nahuel Huapi past the Campanario chairlift to the Llao Llao Hotel and Resort. Bus no. 10 does the same route but continues past the village at Colonia Suiza. Bus no. 50 will take you directly to Cerro Catedral, and snowboards and skis are allowed onboard. Rides cost less than $1.50 (£1; just ask the driver).

When navigating the streets of Bariloche, be aware that two streets have similar names, though they are distinct routes: V.A. O'Connor runs parallel to the Costanera, and J. O'Connor bisects it.

Bringing a Car into Chile -- If you're hoping to do a Lake District circuit combining both the Argentine and Chilean lake districts, be warned that you'll need additional insurance and written permission from the car-rental agency to take the vehicle across the border. If you are planning to drive back to Argentina, you'll have no problems but you will need special papers. Few agencies, however, will allow you to leave the car in Chile. I suggest using Budget or Avis for these trips: They're the only companies with offices in numerous towns in both countries; they can offer roadside assistance, and they can quickly provide you with a replacement car if you run into problems. Note: The passes into Chile require chains in wintertime.

Visitor Information

The Secretaría de Turismo, in the stone-and-wood Civic Center complex between calles Urquiza and Panzoni (tel. 02944/426784; secturismo@bariloche.com.ar), has general information about Bariloche and is an indispensable resource for accommodations listings, especially during the high season. They also operate an information stand in the bus terminal, open Monday through Friday from 8am to 9pm, and Saturday and Sunday from 9am to 9pm. Useful tourism information, as well as the best maps and local books, are available at an information kiosk at the corner of Villegas and Moreno, next to the Artisan Market (no phone).

Good websites for all sorts of up-to-date travel information include www.bariloche.org and www.interpatagonia.com.

The Club Andino Bariloche, Av. 20 de Febrero 30 (tel. 02944/422266; fax 02944/424579; www.clubandino.com.ar), provides excellent information about hiking, backpacking, and mountaineering in the area. They sell maps and provide treks and mountain ascents led by guides from the Club Andino; they are open daily from 9am to 1pm and 6 to 9pm during winter, daily from 8:30am to 3pm and 5 to 9pm during summer. This is an essential stop for those heading into the mountains. For general information about Nahuel Huapi National Park, head to the park's headquarters across the street from the Civic Center (tel. 02944/423111), open Monday through Friday from 8:30am to 12:30pm.

Side Trips

The massive Nahuel Huapi National Park extends to the south of Bariloche in a winding maze of majestic mountains and lakes. Whether you're on a day's drive, as part of an overnight getaway from the hustle and bustle of Bariloche, or en route to a world-class fly-fishing lodge, this area is definitely worth exploring. Driving south out of Bariloche on RN 40, you'll pass tall waterfalls and snowy peaks, edge around emerald lakes, and drop through a deep canyon as you head to El Bolsón. This laid-back town has a microclimate that has drawn nature lovers from around the country since the 1960s.

Heading south from Bariloche, you'll find the lovely Estancia Peuma Hue (tel. 02944/15-501030 [cell]; www.peuma-hue.com) on the south shore of Lake Gutierrez. With two large houses and two cabins, as well as a slew of outdoor activities such as horseback riding and trekking, this high-end complex is intimate. It's one of the only ways to live a more rural Patagonian experience so close to Bariloche. A 3-day all-inclusive plan starts at $255 (£173) per person per day.

Continuing south, you'll pass the Continental Divide -- a wide marsh where the water drains north to Lake Gutierrez and then on to the Nahuel Huapi and the Atlantic; and west through Lake Mascardi, over the border to Chile and the Pacific.

El Bolson

131km (81 miles) S of Bariloche

A lovely town of 11,000 set amid a lush valley, El Bolsón is equally famous for its artisan's fair and its microclimate, which makes it almost 7°F (4°C) warmer than in Bariloche. On Saturdays throughout the year, and on Sundays, Tuesdays, and Thursdays in summer, El Bolsón hosts a wonderful Artisan and Produce Market in its central plaza. Stroll the stands for organic fruit, wool sweaters, homemade jams, wooden cutting boards, and microbrewed beer. There are also vegetarian sandwiches, sweet waffles, and delicious Armenian empanadas to grab as snacks. It usually runs from 10am to 4pm. Because El Bolsón is in a basin surrounded by tall peaks, there is great hiking here. One of the most interesting hikes takes you up to the Bosque Tallado, a magical forest with sculpted tree trunks. Inquire at the Tourist Information Center, Avenida San Martín and Roca (tel. 02944/492604), for trail maps and other information.

El Bolsón is also known for its production of hops, its microbreweries, and its annual Beer Festival, held each year in late February. South of El Bolsón by 15km (9 1/3 miles) is Lago Puelo National Park, where visitors can swim, boat, hike, camp, and fish.

Where to Stay & Dine -- The downtown core has some standard hotels, the best of which is Hotel Cordillera, Av. San Martín 3220 (tel. 02944/492235). Rooms have lovely balconies. Doubles start at $70 (£47). Outside town, you can soak up the authentic El Bolsón lifestyle at La Casona de Odile, Barrio Luján, Km 6 (tel. 02944/492753; www.interpatagonia.com/odile), a small inn and restaurant serving French cuisine and local produce. Rooms start at $45 (£30), and for $62 (£42) you can include three fabulous meals a day. Jauja [S], Av. San Martín 3261 (tel. 02944/493505), is home to an outstanding ice-cream parlor and a good restaurant next door with delicious trout entrees. Vegetarians will love La Calabaza, Av. San Martín 2518 (tel. 02944/492910), which serves soups, salads, and quiches.

South of El Bolson

Farther along the road is the village of Cholila, where Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid hid out and ranched in peace from 1901 to 1906. They became cherished members of this tiny community. You can still spot the old farmhouse the two fugitives built. South of Cholila, the outstanding Museo Leleque (tel. 02944/451141; Tues-Thurs 11am-5pm) is 6km (3 3/4 miles) from town on RP 15. Situated on an enormous ranch once owned by the South-Land Company, and now part of the extensive landholdings of the Italian clothier family Benetton, this excellent museum focuses on the history of rural Patagonia. Nearby is the Los Alerces National Park, one of the world's finest fly-fishing areas. Its majestic giant alerce trees are more than 2,000 years old, and mesmerizing emerald lakes come into view at every turn. Esquel Outfitters (tel. 406/581-1760 in the U.S.; www.esqueloutfitters.com) will hook you up on a dreamy weeklong fishing adventure, with accommodations in their luxurious and remote lodge. The best lodge around is the Lago Cholila Lodge (tel. 02944/610310; www.cholila.com).

Continuing south is the small city of Esquel, 310km (193 miles) south of Bariloche and 180km (119 miles) from El Bolsón. It's another mecca for fly-fishing and home to a little-known but gorgeous ski resort called La Hoya. Hosteria Canela (tel. 02945/453890; www.canelaesquel.com) is a lovely B&B in the nicest part of town.

Driving Tours

This wonderful, full-day excursion takes visitors through lush forest and past emerald lakes (such as the picturesque Lago Mascardi), waterfalls, and beaches to a trail head that leads to the face of Ventisquero Negro (Black Glacier). You'll need a vehicle to drive the 215km (133-mile) round-trip road, including a detour to Cascada Los Alerces (Los Alerces Waterfall); it's 170km (105 miles) without the detour. Plan to stop frequently at the various lookout points along the road. Most tour agencies offer this excursion for about $35 to $40 (£24-£27) a person. A private bilingual local guide can also take you for around $160 (£108) plus transportation.

At 35km (22 miles) south of Bariloche, you'll reach Villa Mascardi. Take RP 81, the road that branches off to the right. You must stop at the National Parks gates and pay an entrance fee of $3.50 (£2.35) for foreigners. Past the turnoff to Pampa Linda and Los Rapidos campsite, continue to the Río Manso bridge, where a road heads left to the Los Alerces Waterfall. A 300m (984-ft.) walk takes you to a vista point overlooking the waterfall. After doubling back, you reach the bridge again, where you head left, continuing along the shore of Lake Mascardi until you reach the Hotel Tronador (tel. 02944/441062; www.hoteltronador.com), where the views of Mt. Tronador are outstanding. The charming log cabin hotel, built in 1929 by a Belgian immigrant family, is backed by high peaks and makes a good spot for lunch or a quiet getaway for overnight visitors. They have 30 rooms; high-season (Jan-Feb) prices for a double start at $115 (£78). The road continues up the valley of the Río Manso Superior, winding through alpine scenery until reaching the lush and expansive Pampa Linda plains, where there is another inn and teahouse. The final leg ends at a stunning cirque (a steep valley with a lake) draped with vegetation and waterfalls. From here a trail leads to the Black Glacier, named for the debris that colors the ice at its terminus. The mountain's power is imposing here. Return to Bariloche the same way you came, and see if you can pick out the heart-shaped Isla Corazón in the middle of Lago Mascardi.

Note that the route to Tronador, RP 81, is a narrow gravel road with restricted hours of transit during the busy summer months. Cars are allowed to travel in toward Tronador in the mornings only (9:30am-2pm), and travel out again in the afternoon only (4:30-7:30pm). Check with the Tourist Information Office before heading out.

Ruta 40: The Road South -- The mighty and legendary Ruta 40 is one of the world's great adventure drives. It takes you along the eastern slope of the Andes from the top of Argentina all the way to the bottom of Patagonia. For travelers with a few extra days, 3-night Ruta 40 trips are organized by Chalten Travel (tel. 02944/456005; www.chaltentravel.com); Tohol Expediciones (tel. 02944/456327; www.toholexpediciones.com) includes stops at traditional estancias, petroglyphs, and untouched national parks, and it costs a budget-friendly $450 (£305) per person. It starts in Bariloche and ends in El Calafate. Don't even think of making this expedition on your own without a 4WD in excellent condition, stocked with all the necessary supplies. This land is Patagonia off the beaten track.

Maps

Customize your trip planning experience by plotting selected points of interest using our interactive map of San Carlos de Bariloche.
Plan your trip around all of San Carlos de Bariloche, or focus in on specific San Carlos de Bariloche neighborhood maps if you prefer.

Interactive Map

Guidebook Maps

Hotels

Icon_star : About our rating system

	Price	Name	Neighborhood
		Aldebaran	Outside the City Center
		Cacique Inacayal	Around Town
		Design Suites	Outside the City Center
		El Casco Art Hotel	Outside the City Center
		Hostería Isla Victoria Lodge	Outside the City Center
		Hostería Las Marianas	In the City Center
		Hotel Edelweiss	In the City Center
		Hotel Panamericano	In the City Center
		Hotel Sol del Nahuel	Outside the City Center
		Llao Llao Hotel & Resort	Outside the City Center
		Patanuk Guesthouse	Around Town
		Perikos Youth Hostel	Around Town
		View Boutique Hotel	Around Town
		Villa Huinid	Outside the City Center

Hotels

If you're looking for luxury, you'll find the most options along Avenida Bustillo, the main road outside town that runs parallel to the lake and leads to the Llao Llao Peninsula. The larger hotels in the city (such as the Panamericano) tend to cater to tour groups or students and aren't especially luxurious or service oriented. If you're planning to rent a car, then by all means stay outside the city and drive in at your convenience. You can also take the local bus or a quick taxi ride.

During the high season (Dec 15-Feb 28 and Easter week), prices double. Many hotels consider the winter months of July and August to be a second high season, with prices to match.

The cheapest rates are from March 1 to June 30 and September 1 to December 15. Dates vary; inquire before booking and always ask for promotions or discounts for multiday stays. Rates listed here are generally for high season.

Cabanas -- The southern shoreline of Nahuel Huapi Lake is dotted with cabin complexes for visitors. Some have only one or two cabanas for rent, while other have up to a dozen. They're a nice way to be self-sufficient, prepare your own meals, and make yourself at home. Some can be very affordable, especially outside the high-season months of January and August. Bungalows and apart-hotels are similar options. Try the fun El Bosque de los Elfos, Avenida Bustillo, Km 5 (tel. 02944/442356; www.bungalowsdeloselfos.com.ar), or the upscale lakefront Puerto Pireo, Bustillo Km 17.1 (tel. 02944/448484; www.puertopireo.com.ar). Patagonia Vista, Bustillo Km 21.85 (tel. 02944/448735; www.patagoniavista.com.ar), is a new complex also right on the lake, with lake houses available.

Restaurants

Icon_star : About our rating system

	Price	Name	Cuisine
		Butterfly	Fusion
		Cassis	European
		Días de Zapata	Mexican
		El Boliche de Alberto	Steakhouse
		El Boliche Viejo	Regional
		El Mundo	Pizzeria
		Familia Weiss	Regional
		Il Gabbiano	Italian
		Kandahar	Regional
		La Fonda del Tio	Regional
		Naan	Fusion
		Rincon Patagonico	Parilla
		Rock Chicken	Fast Food
		Santos	Modern Italian
		Tarquino	Regional
		Vegetariano	Vegetarian
		Yuco	Modern Argentine

	0 stars	Frommer's Recommended
	1 stars	Frommer's Highly Recommended
	2 stars	Frommer's Very Highly Recommended
	3 stars	Frommer's Exceptional

	0 stars	Frommer's Recommended
	1 stars	Frommer's Highly Recommended
	2 stars	Frommer's Very Highly Recommended
	3 stars	Frommer's Exceptional